Unveiling the Bulgari Icons Collection: A Fusion of History and Contemporary Design
Two years ago, Mary Katrantzou, Bulgari's inaugural creative director of leather goods and accessories, embarked on an exploration of the brand's rich historical archives. This journey led her to reimagining Bulgari's iconic jewelry pieces, resulting in a debut collection of minaudières aptly named Icons (https://www.bulgari.com/en-int/bags-and-accessories/bvlgari-icons).
The collection comprises five limited-edition bags, each available in two sizes, and draws inspiration from Bulgari's signature motifs. These include the ancient Greek- and Roman-inspired Monete coin, the serpentine Serpenti made famous by Elizabeth Taylor, the fluid Tubogas, the fan-shaped Divas' Dream, and the circular Bulgari Bulgari. Katrantzou's creative process involved transforming jewelry into functional accessories, with each bag embodying the essence of a precious jewel.
Exquisite stones such as amethyst, tiger's-eye, and malachite adorn the bags, each named after an iconic woman: fashion and cinema icon Isabella Rossellini, author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, supermodel Linda Evangelista, actor Kim Ji-won, and architect Sumayya Vally. Katrantzou invited these women to write personal essays on themes like creativity, tradition, and life lessons, which were then printed as miniature books, fittingly sized to be carried within the bags.
Isabella Rossellini, whose family had close ties with the Bulgari family, penned a reflective piece about returning to school in her 60s to pursue a master's degree in animal behavior and conservation. She challenges the notion of being an icon, emphasizing that it is an attribute rather than a profession. Rossellini believes it signifies a life with multifaceted interests beyond one's job, a perspective that aligns with her diverse career and collaborations.
Katrantzou's Icons collection symbolizes both evolution and heritage, where precious objects become vessels of knowledge. Her intention was to collaborate with women who embody cultural significance, creative courage, and a sense of legacy, recognizing them as guardians of culture. Additionally, Katrantzou's design choices include bag sizes and silhouettes that intentionally do not accommodate phones, making a cultural statement in itself.
